Phoenix Model Flying Club
For The Beginner
| S. | Switch On |
| M. | Meter in the green |
| A. | Aerial secure and extended |
| R. | Rate switches all in correct positions |
| T. | Trims all in correct positions |
Choosing a
Club.
As a beginner to the Hobby, visit your local model shop or
use the Web site of your regional association.
In the UK it is
generally the BMFA, Scotland the SAA, and in the USA its the
AMA.
Find
out your nearest model clubs and pay them a visit.
All clubs are
different, offering varying abilities in their training, flying skills and
social calendars. You need to be sure that the club is right for you. Some clubs
have limits on membership numbers, so check to see if this would be a problem
for you. Also, watch the flight line to see how well controlled it is and more
importantly how long people have to wait to get a flight. I know of clubs where
competent flyers may be lucky to get 2 flights in a whole afternoon, imagine
this compounded by the fact that the person training you will also want flying
time. These are rare issues but they can happen.
Choosing Radio Gear
Again personal preference rules
here though there are two different modes
available.
Basically,
Mode 1 has the throttle on the right
hand stick
Mode 2 has the throttle on the left hand
stick
PMFC fly Mode 2, Mode 2 is just about the norm these days. Find out from your club which mode they fly, as this will
affect their ability to train you. Not many people can cross train Mode 1 to 2
or vice versa. Also check if their are any frequency restrictions. Some clubs
operate on an evens or odds only policy.
The frequency band for model flying is 35 MHz and has channel
numbers ranging from 55 to 90 in single number steps,
so you should be able to get a suitable channel.
If you can, see if the
club has any spare or low usage slots. This will enable you to choose a
frequency that may get you
more flying time. You can't even switch on your
transmitter if someone else is already using your frequency.
There are
many manufacturers. In the UK, the main available sets are Futaba, Sanwa,
JR, Hitec and Multiplex.
You can also obtain via Mail order a UK
manufactured set from DigiFleet, check out the model mags. All are good quality and should give you many years of valuable
service. I would recommend that you either visit the model shop or ask one of
the clubs flyers if you can hold the transmitter. Each is different and comfort
is important if you are going to stand around for 20 minutes or so holding the tranny in your mits.
Check any switches / knobs etc. do not interfere
with your grip. Where possible i.e. if funds can go this far, purchase 6
channel gear, it will give you with greater longevity providing support for
flaps or on-board cameras etc. as your flying and modelling skills
grow, and most 6 channel sets provide "dual rates" for training and "End Point
Adjustment" for setting up your servos.
Finally, DO NOT accept dry cell powered Transmitters or non
soldered ni-cad packs. Get a rechargeable battery pack for the transmitter, they
are generally far safer and cheaper in the long term. For the receiver get a
soldered pack. If the set includes a plastic holder for the receiver batteries,
place it in the bin and buy a proper soldered pack. We have had more trouble due
to bad contacts from these packs, they just aren't worth it.
Building Advice
Take your time.
Read
the instructions or RTFM (Read The Flipping Manual) as they say, then read them again. Rush it, make a
mistake and you could well end up taking home a bag of bits. If you have any
problems SEEK ADVICE. Use the recommended glues, if your not sure, get some
scraps of the bits to be glued and test them first.
Cyano, polyester
resins and glues like Evo-Stik can attack / eat some plastics &
foams.
Before you glue, dry assemble the parts to check that they will
really go together. Better to find out now than when the glue is on the
wood..... If your already a confident builder and/or good with your hands,
then I would agree with cyano for general jobs. If your not, then use some of
the other glues such as PVA, Wood Glues (Waterproof), epoxies and general
purpose modelling glues. Do NOT use the Heat Gun Glues. They generally don't
have enough strength to be of use.
These take time to dry and don't
"grab" reducing the potential to end up with badly aligned components. Oh, and
don't do as one young member did when told he could use the white glue in the
plastic container use Polycell Wallpaper paste. It's not a good idea for wood
joints!!!!!!!
Installing Radio gear
When installing radio
gear, you should do a few important things
1) Wrap the receiver in foam
to stop engine, airframe and flight shocks being transferred to the sensitive
electronics.
2) Install the receiver behind the battery. This minimises
impact damage due to the battery moving forward and hitting the receiver during
heavy landings/arrivals
3) Fit the small brass bushes into the rubber
grommets. These help stop you tightening the screws too much
4) Use
screws that are long enough for the job
5) Use screws not glue to hold
servos in place
6) Protect the aerial with a small length of silicon
fuel tube where it exits the fuselage.
7) Install the switch in such a position
that it doesn't get swabbed in the exhaust gunk and cannot be switched
on / off accidentally whilst carrying the model.
8) check that the
servos are not stalling whist in use and have full travel without obstruction
from other nearby items. a Stalled servo - A Throttle servo stalled near to full
travel for instance, can flatten a fully charged receiver pack in minutes.